The increase would raise the District’s levy on property tax to $3.42 per one hundred dollars of assessed value.

Those running for the two available three year School Board seats are Jeff Jones, Michael Goolsby, R. Scott Hurrell, Roy Mason, Debbie Baugh, Mark Robinson and Mark Westhoff. Seven candidates are on the ballot for the one year unexpired term, David Knost, David Wallace, Alex Boyer, Stanley Walker, Mark Robinson, Mark Westhoff and Danny Lambeth.

The City Council Fourth Ward position is the only contested seat. Both Bill Welch, an incumbent and Bill Johnson, former City Council member have filed for that seat. Claude Newport, an incumbent is the candidate for the two year term in First Ward, Dave Woods for the unexpired term in First Ward, Second Ward, Mike Harris; Third Ward, incumbent Jackie Boyer; and Fifth Ward, incumbent Don Stearnes.

If ya hadn’t noticed, there’s gonna be votin’ tomorrow. As far as City council races, there’s only one, for the Fifth Ward. Other wards only have one candidate.

The School Board election will be the one drawin’ the most interest as far as candidates go. Several choices for the two regular openings, and also several runnin’ for the one year term to finish out the unexpired term due to a resignation.

Prob’ly the reason a lotta folks will be out votin’ is the proposed increase in the property tax levy for the R-9 School District.

Apparently there has been some mail goin’ out from an unknown source that contains an employment agreement for a school employee. Don’t know the exact reasonin’, but it does indicate the level of tension surroundin’ the issue.

This is some fact, but mostly,

Just Jake Talkin’.

by

Carthage Printing

THIS IS A HAMMER

By Samantha Mazzotta

Replacing a Toilet Tank

Q: While cleaning the outside of the toilet tank, I noticed a very thin crack running along the underside. The water has been running off and on for a couple months now, so I suppose the tank is leaking, but I didn’t detect any moisture. Can I just patch this crack, or should I replace the tank? — James A., White Plains, N.Y.

A: Patching the crack with a water-resistant caulk is at best a temporary solution, but you can do so for a couple of months while you save money for a replacement toilet tank (which you will need, unfortunately, because the crack will widen and begin leaking around the caulk). Drain the tank completely and dry it before patching. Apply the caulk along the crack and smooth it in with a putty knife, feathering the edges and scraping away excess. Let it dry 24 hours before refilling the tank.

Since you detected no water leak underneath the tank, the off-and-on running is likely the flapper valve (the rubber stopper at the outlet that leads to the toilet bowl) not closing properly. The solution could be as simple as adjusting the lift chain or wires, or scrubbing the rim of the outlet to remove mineral buildup.

When you’re ready to replace the tank, go to the hardware store with the toilet manufacturer’s name in hand, and ideally the model name or number. Have the tank’s measurements written down, too. In addition to the tank, you’ll also be purchasing a spud washer, flush handle, ballcock and flush valve. Many tank kits come with these items preinstalled; if not, install everything but the spud valve prior to setting up the new tank.

From this point on, this is a two-person job. Turn off the water feed to the toilet and drain the tank by flushing, then soak up water remaining in the bottom of the tank. Disconnect the water supply tube. Using a ratchet wrench, unscrew the bolts underneath the tank. Station one person on each side and carefully lift the old tank straight up, then place it out of the way on a couple of old towels.

Now it’s time to install that mysterious item, the spud washer. It’s actually rather important, as most of the tank’s weight rests on this thick piece of rubber, rather than on the toilet base. Turn the new tank upside down and slip the washer into place around the tailpiece of the flush valve.